Pet Health Advice

Dog

What are allergies?

An allergy is an abnormal immune reaction to an otherwise harmless substance. Allergies are one of the most common causes of skin disease seen in dogs.

What causes allergies?

Your dog’s immune system is a very powerful and effective defense mechanism – anything that gets into your dog that the immune system doesn’t recognise is attacked and destroyed. However, sometimes the immune system can make a mistake, and respond to a harmless substance in the environment (such as pollen, or a particular type of food, for example). This cannot be destroyed but the immune system tries really hard to do so. The most common allergen in dogs is thought to be flea saliva but they can respond to a wide range of other substances such as pollen, certain types of protein found in food, mites, cleaning products and many more.

What dogs are at risk?

Any dog may develop an allergy; however, it is most common for dogs to become allergic early in adult life. It’s important to remember that a dog cannot become allergic to a substance until they have been exposed to it on at least two occasions.

What are the symptoms?

The exact symptoms observed will depend on what part of the immune system has been stimulated; in general, however, most allergies in dogs present with skin symptoms (even food allergies).

These include itching, reddening of the skin, hair loss, self-trauma (from scratching) and secondary infections. In many cases, the skin first affected is that lining the outer ear canals, so dogs with allergic skin disease may initially appear to have an ear infection; the softer skin between the pads on their feet is also commonly affected. In other cases, the allergy may cause a runny, itchy nose or itchy, sore eyes. Rarely an allergy can cause an upset stomach (especially diarrhoea).

How are allergies diagnosed?

There are three approaches to diagnosis of allergies.

The first is to look at the history – when do the symptoms appear, are they associated with any type of food, bedding or environment? Do they only appear after walking under certain trees in the park, or if you used a certain fabric conditioner? This will often allow us to determine what types of things are causing the allergy, but not always.

If not, we can use special tests such as an IgE blood test (to look for raised levels of antibodies in the bloodstream) or an Intradermal Allergen Test (where we inject certain substances into the skin and then measure the response). These both have strengths and weaknesses, but using a combination of both we can usually determine the cause of your dog’s allergic reactions.

In the case of food allergies, the only way to definitively demonstrate it is to put the dog on an exclusion diet, where the dog eats only novel foods (that their immune systems have never been exposed to before) or, better, a hydrolysed diet (which is specially formulated so that the immune system cannot respond to it). If the symptoms resolve, then we introduce one foodstuff at a time until we discover which one is the problem.

How can they be treated or managed?

The ideal treatment for any allergy is simple – avoid the allergen! In some conditions (like Flea Allergic Dermatitis) this is very doable – it isn’t easy but it is possible to eradicate fleas in your house. However, this isn’t always practical, so there are other options.

The first is medication – there are a range of different medications available to reduce itching and damp-down the immune system’s abnormal response. Some are rarely successful (such as antihistamines), some have many side effects (like steroids) and some are very expensive (like oclacitinib), but careful and judicious use of medication can make all the difference to a dog’s quality of life.

Other possibilities include desensitisation, where we “teach” the immune system to ignore harmless allergens.

Can allergies be prevented?

Unfortunately, at this time they cannot be prevented. Predisposition to developing allergies is partly genetic, but it also depends on the environment.

What is arthritis?

When we talk about “arthritis”, we usually mean “osteoarthritis”, also called “Degenerative Joint Disease”. This is the type of arthritis that older dogs get from a lifetime of wear-and-tear. It’s probably the commonest single disorder of the older dog, and the commonest threat to their welfare and wellbeing.

What causes arthritis?

As a rule of thumb, there are three causes of osteoarthritis – normal weight bearing on an abnormal joint (e.g. in Hip Dysplasia); abnormal weight bearing on a normal joint (e.g. obese or overweight dogs); and normal weight bearing on a normal joint for an abnormal length of time (e.g. old dogs). Whatever the cause, however, the process is the same – the joint cartilage becomes damaged, leading to inflammation, pain and further damage. At the same time, extra bone forms around the joints to try and stabilise them, but this restricts the range of motion.

What dogs are at risk?

Any older dog, especially if they are overweight, have orthopaedic problems (e.g. hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, or a poorly healed injury), or are “high mileage” e.g. working or highly active dogs are at increased risk. However, arthritis may occur in any dog under some circumstances.

What are the symptoms of arthritis?

The most common early symptom is “stiffness” and a reduced desire for exercise or activity. This may initially be misdiagnosed as simply “getting older” or “slowing down”, but it is in fact due to joint pain. It typically progresses to difficulty rising or ascending stairs or slopes, and then definite and obvious lameness (although this is usually present in more than one leg). A characteristic feature is that the lameness or stiffness is usually worst immediately after getting up, and it then decreases or “works off”. It is also often worse the day after strenuous exercise.

How is arthritis diagnosed?

In many cases, arthritis can be diagnosed simply from the history and a good description of the symptoms. The most useful additional test is often a “Range of movement examination” where the vet will see how far in each direction a joint can be moved without pain – this is usually reduced in patients with advanced arthritis. To fully assess the joint(s), it is necessary to carry out an X-ray examination and look at the bone ends and joint spaces; however, this isn’t always appropriate in an old or ill dog.

How can arthritis be treated or managed?

Strictly speaking, there is no cure for arthritis; however, it is possible to replace some joints – hip and elbow replacements are now fairly common. That said, arthritis is rarely so severe that this

Is required, at least initially, and it can usually be manged with a combination of techniques.

At home, the owners can make the dog’s life a lot easier with some simple modification – ramps instead of steps, a comfortable bed to lie on, and keeping their sleeping areas warm. In addition, weight loss can be a very powerful tool in the overweight dog – it is estimated that a reduction of one body condition score point is as effective as a dose of a painkiller! Physiotherapy and hydrotherapy can also be very helpful.

However, the mainstay of managing arthritis patients is with medication – usually anti-inflammatory and painkilling drugs. Remember, there are no over-the-counter painkillers for dogs for long-term use, and human products are often lethally poisonous to dogs. Nutritional supplements (such as glucosamine or chondroitin) are also widely used – the evidence for their effectiveness is weak, but they do seem to help some dogs, especially if given with a large meal (to reduce their breakdown by stomach acids).

Can arthritis be prevented?

Arthritis will probably develop eventually in most dogs; however, it can be delayed and slowed down with proper care throughout life. This would include weight control, regular exercise, and getting and lameness or other orthopaedic disorders diagnosed and treated as early as possible.

What is dental disease?

Dental disease is a catch-all term relating to disease of the teeth and gums. It is very common in dogs, and ranges from mild scale on the teeth to severe periodontal disease that may contribute to kidney or heart disease.

What causes dental disease?

Unlike us, dogs and cats do not brush their teeth every morning and evening. As a result, plaque builds up – this is a mixture of food material, dead cells from the gums, and bacteria. Over time, this becomes thicker and then mineralises (turns into a hard, stone-like matrix which we call tartar). When this bacteria-ridden growth reaches the gum line, it causes infection of the gums – gingivitis. If untreated, this will spread down into the tooth socket, and at this stage we refer to it as periodontitis. This weakens the ligaments holding the teeth in the socket, causing them to become loose and eventually fall out.

In addition, infection can spread through the bloodstream to other organs, especially the heart and kidneys. It doesn’t matter what food a dog is eating, or whether they regularly chew bones or chew toys – some dogs will still develop tartar and then dental disease (although some foods are worse than others).

What dogs are at risk?

All dogs are at risk from dental disease, but it is often most dramatic in older dogs where the plaque has had years to build up. In addition, miniature and toy breeds are slightly more likely to develop early onset dental disease because they often have abnormalities of the mouth, meaning the teeth are at odd angles and therefore are more likely to build up plaque and tartar.

What are the symptoms of dental disease?

Initially, the main symptom is bad breath. Over time, this may progress to red, swollen and inflamed gums, loose teeth and pain when eating. In severe cases, dogs may stop eating entirely. In addition, heart disease and kidney failure have both been linked to untreated dental disease.

How is dental disease diagnosed?

Simple physical examination is often sufficient; however, dental X-rays are also invaluable. In most dogs, a full examination of the mouth and teeth requires a general anaesthetic so that the gum-lines can be probed (something that isn’t possible in very many conscious ones).

How can dental disease be treated or managed?

Once dental disease (even severe plaque) has developed, it requires surgical treatment – we call this “a dental”, and it’s exactly the same treatment as you get when you go to the dentist. The only difference is that we have to use a general anaesthetic. We will carefully examine every tooth, and remove any that are too diseased to survive. Then we’ll clean the remaining teeth with an ultrasonic scaler and then polish them to make them smooth. Afterwards, preventative care is all that is usually needed.

Can dental disease be prevented?

Yes, very easily. Although there are a range of “dental chews” available, these are of limited use in most dogs (although they’re often better than nothing). The same goes for specialist dental diets; chewing on bones is not reliable and may introduce health problems of its own, so isn’t something we’d usually recommend. The most important and effective preventative treatment is tooth brushing – something you should be doing every day. Use a normal tooth brush, and special dog-toothpaste (don’t use human toothpaste – the mint burns their gums), and gently brush the teeth at least daily. Mouthwash additives in their water or food will also help slow down the growth of plaque. Regular brushing sounds difficult, but it is the only way to prevent the formation of plaque and subsequent dental disease.

What is it?

Diarrhoea is defined as the passage of a greater than normal volume of faeces; usually, the faeces are much wetter than usual, and they frequently have a more offensive smell than normal. Diarrhoea can be caused by disease of the small intestine or the large intestine (sometimes known as small bowel vs large bowel diarrhoea); and may also be due to an increase in gut movement or (counterintuitively) a reduction in movement.

What causes diarrhoea?

Diarrhoea is one of the most common symptoms reported in dogs, and there are a huge number of possible causes. The commonest reason for a dog to develop acute (sudden onset) diarrhoea is diet – either too sudden a change in what they’re being fed, or they’ve eaten something nasty (this is known as dietary indiscretion, and may also be accompanied by vomiting).

However, other possible causes include infection (e.g. Parvovirus or Campylobacter), a heavy worm burden, or infection with parasites such as Giardia. There is also a condition called Small Intestinal Bacterial Overgrowth (SIBO) where an excess of bacteria in the small bowel leads to problems.

Non-infectious causes include pancreatic disorders (such as Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency, EPI), or toxins (such as chocolate peanuts or heavy metals). Sometimes, the dog’s own body is the problem, with conditions such as immune system diseases (e.g. Inflammatory Bowel Disease, IBD), food allergies (although this is rare, they usually cause itchy skin), or tumours of the intestine (especially Alimentary Lymphoma).

What dogs are at risk of diarrhoea?

Almost all dogs will develop diarrhoea at some time in their lives. Puppies are at the highest risk of Parvovirus; young adult dogs are at higher risk of dietary indiscretion, while older dogs are more likely to have tumours. Sometimes genetics are also a factor – German Shepherds often have poor intestinal immunity, making them more prone to infections, whereas some lines of Basenji are predisposed to IBD.

What are the symptoms of diarrhoea?

Although all dogs with diarrhoea are producing more faeces than usual, the exact symptoms will depend on where the diarrhoea originates. Small Bowel diarrhoea typically causes a larger increase in faecal volume, but only a mild increase in frequency. It is often associated with vomiting, loud intestinal noises, and if it goes on for too long, weight loss. Large bowel diarrhoea, on the other hand, tends to result in massively increased frequency of defecation, often with straining. In many cases, the faeces passed will be jelly-like and may contain blood. Of course, as diarrhoea is a symptom, the underlying illness may cause other symptoms as well – such as weight loss in tumours, or fever in infections.

How is it diagnosed?

Well, the presence of diarrhoea is pretty unmissable. However, working out exactly what the cause is can be quite challenging. Fortunately, most cases of acute diarrhoea can be managed symptomatically and will resolve on their own in a short time.

Diagnostic tests to determine the cause include blood tests (especially for Cobalamin and Folate for SIBO, plus TLI for EPI); and faecal analysis (to look for worms and other parasites, plus certain bacteria (such as Salmonella and Campylobacter). If a food allergy is suspected, a hypoallergenic exclusion diet may be needed; and if IBD might be responsible, endoscopy and gut biopsies are invaluable.

How can diarrhoea be treated or managed?

For simple acute diarrhoea, home management is usually appropriate for the first 2-3 days, assuming the dog is otherwise healthy and bright in themselves. Do NOT starve a dog with diarrhoea, but do offer them plenty of water (ideally with dog-suitable electrolytes to help prevent dehydration), and feed a very bland diet (boiled chicken and rice, or a specialist intestinal food). Anti-diarrhoeal pastes such as ProMax will also help, but NEVER give human medicines unless told to by the vet. If the diarrhoea doesn’t resolve on its own; or if your dog seems dull, listless, ill in themselves, or has any other symptoms, take them in to the practice so your vet can check them over. In most cases, once the cause is identified, we’ll treat that, but occasionally specialist anti-diarrhoeal drugs may be prescribed.

Can diarrhoea be prevented?

The best way to minimise the risk is to make sure your dog only eats a good-quality diet, you don’t change food rapidly, and you don’t let them rummage in dustbins or eat dead rotting things they find out and about!

What is pyometra?

Pyometra, or “a Pyo”, is an infection of a dog’s uterus (womb). It is a severe and potentially fatal condition, and preventing it is one of the main reasons for spaying bitches.

What causes pyometra?

In a normal, healthy bitch, after every season her uterus prepares to receive puppies (this is driven by the hormone progesterone), and whether or not she becomes pregnant, the uterine wall will thicken and secrete fluid. As she gets older, this becomes more and more pronounced – we call this Cystic Endometrial Hyperplasia. Once she’s decided she isn’t actually pregnant (about 2 months after her season), the lining thins down and the fluid is reabsorbed. However, if during this time bacteria can enter the uterus, this fluid is a perfect foodstuff for them, and they rapidly grow and multiply, causing disease.

There are two types of pyometra – an open pyometra (where the cervix remains open, so the pus can drain out of her vagina and vulva), and a closed pyometra (where the cervix is closed so all the bacteria, pus and toxins are trapped inside). Although both are dangerous, a closed pyometra is more likely to be fatal, and is harder to diagnose.

What dogs are at risk of pyometra?

Any un-spayed bitch – although it may be slightly more common in those who haven’t had a litter (although it can happen to any bitch). It usually develops within 3 months of a season, and is more likely in older dogs. Overall, 23% of un-spayed bitches can be expected to develop a Pyo by 10 years of age.

What are the symptoms of pyometra?

A dog with an open pyometra may just appear a little off colour, with a thick cream, yellow or greenish vaginal discharge. However, more often she will be displaying signs of systemic illness, typically increased thirst and urination, lethargy, and loss of appetite.

A closed pyometra is more dangerous, as there is no discharge to warn you of a problem. She will start out with these non-specific signs, but then rapidly deteriorate and start vomiting, her gums may change colour (to red or possibly pale grey), and her abdomen may seem to swell. Ultimately, she will collapse, go into shock and die.

How is pyometra diagnosed?

Usually with an ultrasound scan to look at the uterus – a pus-filled, inflamed uterus is very obvious on ultrasound. Other possible tests include blood tests and a vaginal exam.

How can pyometra be treated or managed?

The treatment of choice is usually surgical removal of the infected uterus. In some cases that are caught early, it may be possible to use hormones (to make the uterus shrink down and expel the infection) and antibiotics (to treat the bacteria) – however, although most dogs will respond to this treatment, the pyometra will recur after the next season in many cases.

Can pyometra be prevented?

Yes – by spaying. A neutered bitch cannot develop a true pyometra.

Cat

What is it?

A Cat Bite Abscess is a common result of cats fighting. Cats’ mouths and claws contain a range of unpleasant bacteria, and when fighting they insert these bugs under the skin of their adversary. As the bacteria grow, they form a pouch of dead and dying tissue, bacteria and white blood cells – pus. This pus-filled pocket is an abscess.

What causes it?

As the name suggests, a cat bite abscess is most commonly due to a bite from another cat – because cat teeth are long and pointed, and easily penetrate the skin, leaving bacteria behind. Because the teeth are so sharp, and cats heal so well, often the skin will close over and heal, leaving infection inside. The bacteria attack the local cells, and the immune system fights back, building up pus inside a cavity under the skin.

What cats are at risk?

All cats are potentially at risk if they ever interact with another cat! It’s less common in indoor-only cats, who fight less frequently, but only a cat who never meets other cats is safe.

What are the symptoms of cat bite abscess?

As the abscess grows, it becomes painful, however, the majority of the symptoms are due to the infection. Cats with a cat bite abscess are often lethargic, off their food, and may have a temperature. They’ll often have increased thirst, and may sometimes vomit as well. The site of the abscess, meanwhile, will be painful, swollen and hot. Eventually, it will burst, and thick cream, yellow or cream pus, often mixed with blood, will ooze out.

How is it diagnosed?

Clinical examination alone is usually sufficient; then the vet will use a needle or a scalpel blade to lance it, to determine whether there is pus inside.

How can it be treated or managed?

The most important factor in managing a cat bite abscess is to drain it – antibiotics alone are unlikely to resolve the abscess, the dead tissue needs to be out. The normal way to achieve this is for the vet to lance the abscess with a large-gauge needle to a scalpel blade, and then wash out the cavity. Normally, once the abscess has burst or been drained, the cat will start to feel better almost immediately; however, it may be appropriate to use painkillers or anti-inflammatories and antibiotics to encourage it to resolve faster.

Can cat bite abscess be prevented?

Only by preventing cats from fighting – and cats who go outside will, occasionally, fight. However, neutering cats will often reduce their aggression and therefore reduce the risk of a fight, and thus a cat bite abscess.

What causes cat flu?

Cat Flu is a very common condition, causing sneezing, runny noses, sore eyes and similar “flu-like” symptoms in unprotected cats. It is also highly contagious, and easily spreads from cat to cat.

What causes cat flu?

Cat Flu isn’t actually a single disease – it can in fact be caused by four different disease organisms. The two most common are Feline Herpes Virus (FHV, also known as Feline Rhinotracheitis) and Feline Calicivirus (FCV). The third cause is less common, and is the Bordetella bacterium, the same as causes Canine Cough in dogs. The final condition is Feline Chlamydia (Chlamydophila felis infection); unlike in most species, this bacterium does not usually cause intestinal upsets or reproductive disease, and rarely causes any symptoms except in combination with another infectious agent.

What cats are at risk of cat flu?

Any cat can become infected. In general, young kittens, very old, or ill cats are at most risk of severe disease, however. The disease organisms are easily transmitted from cat to cat by droplets in the air (especially from sneezing), and some can remain viable and infective for a prolonged period. Many cats also become carriers for Feline Herpes Virus, as even after the symptoms have apparently resolved, the virus will still be dormant in their bodies (mainly in nerve ganglia). If the cat becomes ill or stressed in future, the virus will reactivate and may cause disease, or be shed to infect other cats. Chlamydia is most common in large colonies of cats, and in these situations, any of the organisms will spread like wildfire through the cat population.

What are the symptoms of cat flu?

The main symptoms of Cat Flu are common to all four infections – runny nose, sneezing, lethargy, loss of appetite and a fever. In addition, Bordetella and Chlamydia often cause coughing; and both Herpes Virus and Chlamydia both cause sore, runny eyes and sometimes corneal ulcers. Calicivirus can lead to ulceration of the mouth and throat, and may result in severe systemic disease that can even be life-threatening.

How is cat flu diagnosed?

In most cases, the clinical signs are diagnostic, and determining which organism is causing them isn’t important. If for any reason it is important to distinguish between them, swabs from the eyes, nose and throat can be taken and sent away to a specialist lab who will grow the bacteria and isolate the viruses.

How can cat flu be treated or managed?

There is no specific treatment for Herpes Virus or Calicivirus infection; however, antibiotics (against secondary infections and/or Bordetella and Chlamydia) are frequently prescribed, along with anti-inflammatory drugs (to reduce the fever and make the cat more comfortable). Sometimes, mucolytic drugs (to soften the mucus in their noses and help them to breathe) may be used as well. In severe infections, intensive care nursing, intravenous fluids and even interferon (to stimulate the immune system) may be needed. In most cases, however, good quality home nursing is more appropriate than hospitalisation. It is important to encourage ill cats to drink (for example, with running water, or by moistening their gums to stimulate thirst) and eat (with a bunged-up nose, cats are often reluctant to eat because they can’t smell the food – so strong-smelling foods such as fish, warmed, and hand fed, are often the best solution).

Can cat flu be prevented?

Feline Herpes Virus and Calicivirus can both be prevented by vaccination, and are present in the normal annual boosters your cat should get. Although vaccination doesn’t always stop the cat from carrying the viruses, it does mean that it is very unlikely for them to develop disease, or spread them. It is possible to vaccinate against Chlamydia, but this isn’t normally necessary except in very large colonies of cats.

What is FeLV?

FeLV is Feline Leukaemia Virus, a retrovirus of cats that attacks their immune system. Although in some ways FeLV is similar to FIV (“Feline AIDS”), they are in fact completely different viruses.

What causes FeLV?

The FeLV virus is relatively common in unvaccinated cats (perhaps as many as 8% of cats carrying it). When a cat is infected (by bites, shared feed bowls, litter trays or even mutual grooming), the virus starts to attack the white blood cells. The cat’s immune system will usually stop this rapid replication, but eventually the immune system itself is damaged, and stops working properly. In addition, the virus can trigger infected cells to become cancerous, causing leukaemia, lymphoma and (occasionally) sarcomas.

What cats are at risk of FeLV?

Unvaccinated cats who come into even casual contact with infected carriers. Indoor cats are relatively safe, unless infected animals are introduced (or come in of their own accord).

What are the symptoms of FeLV?

 In the early stages of the disease, there are usually no symptoms – only when the immune system has been severely damaged, months or years after infection, do symptoms become visible. Immunosuppressive disease (i.e. disease caused by collapse of the immune system) may present in a range of different forms, but often include runny noses, sore eyes, persistent diarrhoea, sores in the mouth or gums, chronic skin or ear infections, or an unexplained fever or weight loss. In all cases, minor low-grade infections develop rapidly and may even become life-threatening. Neoplastic Disease (due to the development of virus-induced cancers) typically cause weight loss, obvious masses (e.g. swollen glands), diarrhoea, or anaemia. Sometimes, there may also be neurological signs (wobbliness or even seizures) if a tumour forms in the nervous system.

How is FeLV diagnosed?

There is a simple blood test that can be carried out at your vet’s practice to confirm whether a cat is carrying FeLV (and they’ll usually test for FIV at the same time).

Can FeLV be treated or managed?

There is no cure for the disease. In the case of a cat who is incubating the disease but has not yet developed symptoms, it is really important to isolate them from at-risk cats – ideally by keeping them alone as indoor cats. This will also reduce their exposure to other diseases that may take advantage of their weakened immune system. The use of human anti-AIDS drugs may slow down the development of disease, but these drugs are difficult to dose safely in cats, and will not clear the virus completely.

Can FeLV be prevented?

Yes, there is a highly effective vaccine available as an optional part of your cat’s routine boosters.

What is Feline Immunodeficiency Virus?

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a contagious viral disease of cats. It has many similarities to the human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) which causes AIDS in humans, but FIV only affects cats and is not a risk to human health. The FIV virus damages the cells in the cat’s body that fight infection (the immune system). Signs of FIV infection can take a long time to develop, and FIV infected cats can live comfortably for a number of years. However, the effects of the virus on the immune system are serious, and infected cats are more likely to suffer from secondary infections. 

What is the risk of FIV?  

FIV is spread in the saliva and other bodily fluids of infected cats. Cats become infected by FIV usually through a bite from an infected cat. Unneutered male cats who fight over territory are more likely to be infected with FIV, and it is relatively common in the stray cat population. The virus does not frequently infect the cat’s environment as it cannot survive for long outside the cat, but one bite from an infected cat can be enough to transmit infection. Indoor only cats are much less likely to become infected with FIV.

Unlike HIV, FIV sexual transmission does not seem to be an issue, but if a pregnant cat is infected with FIV, the virus may infect the kittens. Only a small minority of kittens born to FIV infected mothers will have FIV, but the mother may pass on antibodies against FIV to the kittens. For this reason, it is usually recommended to blood test kittens for the presence of FIV virus after six months of age.

FIV is closely related to Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV) and while a cat with FeLV will not automatically become infected with FIV, if they do contract FIV, the disease will be more serious. 

What happens to the cat?

Once infected, in the vast majority of cases, the cat cannot get rid of the virus. The first signs of infection may go unnoticed – the cat may be a little quiet and feverish for a couple of days. Over time, the virus damages the immune system by attacking cells that are involved in controlling infection. FIV infected cats are therefore more prone to developing secondary infections such as skin, urinary tract, respiratory, diarrhoea, and dental infections. This may, however, take months or years to develop.

What are the signs of infection with FIV?

Generally, “under the weather”.

Fever.

Weight loss.

Enlarged lymph nodes.

Secondary infections such as chronic stomatitis (infection and inflammation in the mouth), chronic diarrhoea, skin disease, respiratory disease, may be slow to recover from these infections.

Nervous system disorders.

Delayed wound healing.

How is FIV diagnosed?

Diagnosis is by blood testing for antibodies to FIV. No test is 100% and antibody testing occasionally may give false results. If the result is not clear, the cat’s blood can be tested for the presence of the FIV virus itself, which is conclusive.

Cats that are FIV positive are able to transmit the disease to other cats.

Can FIV be treated or managed?

FIV infected cats may live comfortably for a number of years. If adopting an FIV positive cat it should be the only cat in the house and it should be indoors 100% of the time to reduce the risk of spreading infection, and of the cat picking up secondary infections. 

If a cat with FIV is identified in a household with other cats, it is best to neuter all cats in the household, and consider removal of FIV positive cats. It is advisable to test cats for FIV that are joining a household with other cats. Ideally bringing an FIV positive cat into a household with FIV negative cats should be avoided.

There is no cure for FIV and affected cats are infected for life. 

FIV positive cats should not be bred from.

Feed a good quality diet.

Secondary infections can be treated with antibiotics.

Short courses of steroids may help when needed.

There is an antiviral therapy available but it is very expensive. It can result in short term remission but side effects are common and may occasionally be severe.

Avoid raw feeding as affected cats may be more prone to picking up diseases from raw meat.

The use of human antiretroviral drugs is sometimes possible, but drugs and doses need to be very carefully monitored by your vet, as many of these medications are highly toxic to cats. They are also usually expensive.

Boarding facilities should be made aware that the cat is FIV positive and it should be isolated from other cats.

If the cat cannot live indoors for 100% of the time, or if the cat is sick with FIV and its secondary effects, then it is usually a kind decision to euthanase them. 

How can I protect my cat from FIV?

There is no vaccine available for FIV in Ireland.

Neutering reduces the risk of fighting between cats, and is therefore one of the most effective means of reducing the risk of transmission of FIV.

Indoor cats are highly unlikely to be exposed.

Rabbit

What is ileus/ gut stasis?

Ileus is a life-threatening condition where the normal movement (peristalsis) of the guts stops, also known as ‘gut stasis’. It is a fairly common emergency condition in rabbits and all owners should be aware of the clinical signs of the disease in order to act quickly and for a positive outcome.

Why is gut stasis important?

It is a fairly common and life-threatening reason for rabbits to be presented to the vets as an emergency. It is a symptom, not a condition itself – there will always be an underlying cause. Generally, it is secondary to pain – this may be gastrointestinal (gut), dental or other and it is also frequently associated with stress.

What is the risk of gut stasis?

Some rabbits are more prone to episodes of gut stasis than others. Rabbits have an unusual gastrointestinal system, with a large caecum and high fibre requirements. If this becomes unbalanced then gut stasis may be seen. Many underlying causes can play a factor:

  • Stress and/ or pain
  • Dental disease
  • Blockages such as hairballs (higher risk for long-haired breeds or during moulting – remember that they will groom each other as well as themselves), eating foreign materials (ripping up cardboard/ bedding), tumours or other blockages.
  • Trapped gas known as bloat
  • Inappropriate diet
  • Infections
  • Parasite burden

What happens to the rabbit?

It can be life threatening – rabbits are stoic creatures and often won’t let you know anything is wrong until it’s fairly severe. If the underlying cause is untreatable, has progressed too far, or they simply do not respond to treatment this can result in death or require euthanasia.

However, if prompt and aggressive treatment is administered then treatment can be successful and the outcome can be a positive one.

How do you know what’s going on?

Often the first sign a rabbit has stasis is a reduction in appetite or refusing to take food. This is often associated with a reduced number of faecal pellets (poo) or failing to produce any at all. They may also show signs of pain/ discomfort such as tooth grinding, hunching up or stretching out postures.

Your rabbit must be taken to a vet as an emergency – as part of the examination your vet will listen to your rabbit’s abdomen and in the case of ileus/stasis the gut sounds are likely to be reduced or completely absent. In a normal healthy rabbit, there should be soft gurgling noises when the abdomen is listened to with a stethoscope – this is the peristalsis (movement) of the guts.

What can be done?

Gut stasis is a true emergency and the rabbit must be seen by a vet immediately. Your vet will assess the rabbit and look for a cause of the issue. Often the exact underlying cause may not be found but treatment must start as soon as possible. Your vet will administer, or recommend, some or all of the following medications/ treatments:

  • Pain relief
  • Gut motility enhancer (medication to encourage the guts to start moving again)
  • Syringe feeding (to stimulate the guts and provide essential fibre)

Never try and medicate your rabbit without visiting your vet first as incorrect treatment can be fatal e.g. giving motility enhancers without a vet assessing for a blockage first can result in rupture of the guts and death.

What can I do to protect my rabbit?

If you notice any change in your rabbit’s appetite, activity or toileting habits, contact your vet as soon as possible.

You can try to reduce the risk for your rabbit by:

  • Keeping stress to a minimum
  • Ensuring your housing enables you to assess for daily faecal output, and familiarise yourself with what is ‘normal’ for your rabbit (in terms of size and number of faecal pellets).
  • Always ensure fresh water is available (to reduce the chance of impactions).
  • Ensure ad lib access to good quality hay/grass as a source of fibre.
  • Never make sudden changes to diet, introduce new foods gradually.
  • Act quickly on any concerns and seek advice from your vet.
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